1. Dress with short sleeves
Apply interfacing to the wrong side of back button placket (4cm/1.6” wide).
Fold the 1cm(3/8”) from the raw edge to the wrong side and fold and press 3cm(1.2”) to the wrong side again. Repeat with the other piece.
Pin and sew the shoulders of front
and back together with right sides of fabric together.
Serge or zigzag stitch the shoulders together as shown.
Press seams towards the front.
Press 3/8″(1cm) bias bindings in lengthwise.
Then fold the 1cm(3/8inch) from the raw edge to the wrong side. Then the fold 3cm(1.2inch) to the to the right side as shown. Then pin them for fixing.
Now pin your bias tape to the bodice neckline with right side together.
Sew along the neck line as shown.
Trim the points on any sharp angles and cut half of the seam allowance along the curve.
Turn the button placket part inside out.
And fold the binding to the inside of the garment, rolling the seam line in slightly to hide it on the inside of the garment.
Fold the raw edge of the binding under along the line you pressed earlier,
and pin this fold to the inside of the neck line.
Continue to press the binding to the other side.
Topstitch the binding to the neck line close to the inside fold.
Then edge stitch button placket as shown. Repeat with the other piece.
Make the button holes as shown.
Sew a parallel row of long (gathering) stitches around the arm line of sleeve.
(Stitch length long, tension low/loose)
Gathering the arm line of sleeve.
Stitch the sleeves to the bodice with right sides together as shown.
Serge or zigzag stitch the seams together as shown.
Press seams towards the bodice.
Give the edge stitch on the bodice as shown.
Pin and stitch the front and back together as shown, right sides of fabric together.
Serge or overlock them together.
On the wrong side of sleeve, fold twice <0.5cm(3/16")X2> concealing the cut edge.
Pin all the way around sleeve hem line and sew.
Sew a parallel row of long (gathering) stitches around the waist line of skirt.
(Stitch length long, tension low/loose)
To gather the skirt fabric simply hold the fabric still in one hand and pull one of the loose threads with the other. Do this on both sides until your skirt is the same width as the each waist. Repeat with the other piece.
Face the right sides of skirt together. Pin on and stitch along the side lines.
Serge or zigzag red line at the edge as shown. Press seams towards back.
Match the skirt to bodice waist line with right sides together as picture shown.
Align the skirt and bodice right sides together.
Pin all the way around waist line and sew as shown.
Serge or do zigzag the raw edge.
On the wrong side of skirt, fold twice concealing the cut edge and press. Sew the hem as shown.
2. Dress with long sleeves
Apply interfacing to the wrong side of back button placket (1cm/3/8” wide).
Pin the front pieces together as shown, right sides of fabric together.
Stitch the front center seam from crotch to where the slit ends.
Press center front seams open.
Fold 1cm(3/8") of seams then edge stitch each seams concealing the cut edge as shown.
Sew a parallel row of long (gathering) stitches around the sleeves
(Stitch length long, tension low/loose) from gathering starts until gathering ends.
To gather the sleeves simply hold the fabric still in one hand and pull one of the loose threads with the other as shown.
Do this on both sides until your sleeves are the same width as the side of bodice as shown.
Stitch the sleeves to the bodice with right sides together as shown.
Serge or zigzag stitch the seams together as shown.
Press seams towards the bodice.
Pin and stitch the front and back together as shown, right sides of fabric together.
Serge or overlock them together.
On the wrong side of sleeve, fold twice concealing the cut edge. Pin all the way around sleeve hem line and sew. Stop your line of stitching about 2cm (0.8”) before you reach the point where you began this leaves you an entrance hole to access your elastic band tunnel.
Pull the elastic band trough the tunnel with the help of a safety pin. Lap the ends of the elastic by half inch and stitch them together. Hand sewing the opening shut.
Fold your rectangle in half lengthwise (right side facing out) and press. Then fold the raw edges in towards the folded center line and give it another press.
Fold it again in half lengthwise enclosing the raw edges.
And stitch over as close to the edge as possible.
Overlap the ends of loop and give the small stitch for fixing as shown.
Press 3/8″(1cm) bias bindings in lengthwise.
Now pin your bias tape to the bodice neckline with right side together.
Sew along the neck line as shown.
Trim the points on any sharp angles and cut half of the seam allowance along the curve.
And fold the binding to the inside of the garment, rolling the seam line in slightly to hide it on the inside of the garment.
Fold the raw edge of the binding under along the line you pressed earlier,
and pin this fold to the inside of the neck line.
Continue to press the binding to the other side.
Keep the button loop inside the bias binding side edge and pin in place.
Topstitch the binding to the neck line close to the inside fold and front slit as shown.
Sew a parallel row of long (gathering) stitches around the waist line of skirt.
(Stitch length long, tension low/loose)
To gather the skirt fabric simply hold the fabric still in one hand and pull one of the loose threads with the other. Do this on both sides until your skirt is the same width as the each waist. Repeat with the other piece.
Face the right sides of skirt together. Pin on and stitch along the side lines.
Serge or zigzag red line at the edge as shown. Press seams towards back.
Match the skirt to bodice waist line with right sides together as picture shown.
Align the skirt and bodice right sides together.
Pin all the way around waist line and sew as shown.
Serge or do zigzag the raw edge.
On the wrong side of skirt, fold twice concealing the cut edge and press. Sew the hem as shown.
Hand stitch the button as shown.
3. Bloomer with frills
Fold twice <0.5cm(3/16")X2> concealing the cut edge of frill pieces and press as shown.
Sew a parallel row of long (gathering) stitches around the frills
(Stitch length long, tension low/loose)
Gathering the frills.
Stitch the frills to the side line of front pants with right sides together as shown.
Serge or zigzag stitch the seams together as shown.
Face the right sides of front pants and front side together.
Pin on and stitch along the side lines.
Serge or zigzag red line at the edge as shown.
Press seams towards front pants piece.
Press seams towards the front pants.
Give the edge stitch on the front pants as shown.
Face the right sides of bloomers together and stitch side seams together, Serge or overlock them together before opening starts as shown.
Then stitch inseam together and Serge or overlock seams together. Press seams towards back.
Fold your waist-band in half horlizontally.
And fold 1cm(3/8”) inside & press at the bottom
Match the waist bands together. Face the right sides. Stitch as shown, keeping opening unstitched. Press seams open.
Match the waistband to pants waist line with right sides together as picture shown.
Pin the waist band to the pants all around the waist and sew along the waist lines as shown.
Fold the waist band down lengthwise along the pressed fold.
Top stitch along the bottom of the waist band (about 1/8 inch from the seam between the waistband and the pants), making sure you're catching the inside of the waist band.
Insert elastic band into the opening. Band fits firmly around waist. Overlap at ends and sew to secure as shown. Close the openings with stitching.
On the wrong side of hem line, fold twice concealing the cut edge. Pin all the way around hem line and sew. Stop your line of stitching about 2.5cm (1”) before you reach the point where you began this leaves you an entrance hole to access your elaticband tunnel.
Pull the elastic band trough the tunnel with the help of a safety pin. Lap the ends of the elastic by half inch and stitch them together. Hand sewing the opening shut.
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