Sewing tutorial-13. R64 Dress with frills

 

(1) Apply interfacing to the wrong side of back  button placket (3.5cm/1.4” wide).

(2) Fold the 1cm(0.4”) from the raw edge to  the wrong side and  fold and press 2.5cm(1”)  to the wrong side again.  Repeat with the other piece.

(3) Pin and sew the shoulders of front and back together with right sides of fabric together.  Serge or zigzag stitch the shoulders together as shown. Press seams towards the front. 

(4) Fold twice concealing the cut edge  of frill (straight line) and press.  Sew the hem as shown.
(5) Sew a parallel row of long (gathering) stitches around the frill.  (Stitch length long, tension low/loose) 
(6) Gathering the frill. 
(7) Stitch the frills to the bodice with right sides together as shown. 
(8) Pin and sew the shoulders of side pices together with right sides of fabric together.  Serge or zigzag stitch the  shoulders as shown.
(9) Pin and sew the main pieces and side pieces together with right sides of fabric together. 
Serge or zigzag stitch the edges as shown. 
(10) Give the edge stitch as shown.
(11) Sew a parallel row of long(gathering) stitches around the top sleeve. (Stitch length long, tension low/loose) Gathering the top edge of sleeve. 
(12) Stitch sleeves and armhole together as  shown. Serger them together. 
(13) Pin and stitch the front and back together  as shown, right sides of fabric together.  Serge or overlock them together.
(14) On the wrong side of sleeve, fold twice  concealing the cut edge.  Pin all the way around sleeve hem line and sew. Stop your line of stitching about 2cm (0.8”)  before you reach the point where you began  this leaves you an entrance hole to access  your elastic band tunnel.


(15) Press 1/4″(1cm) bias bindings in lengthwise. (16) Then fold the 1cm(3/8inch) from the raw edge to the wrong side.  Then the fold  3cm(1.2inch) to the to the right side as shown. Then pin them for fixing.  Now pin your bias tape to the bodice neckline with right side together. Sew along the neck line as shown.
(17) Trim the points on any sharp angles and cut half of the seam allowance along the curve.
(18) Turn the button placket part inside out.   And fold the binding to the inside of the garment, rolling the seam line in slightly to hide it on the inside of the garment.  Fold the raw edge of the binding under along the line you pressed earlier, and pin this  fold to the inside  of the neck line.  Continue to press the binding to the other side. Topstitch the binding to the neck line close to the inside fold.
(19) Then edge stitch button placket as shown. Repeat with the other piece. 
(20) Make the button holes as shown. 
(21) Using your CB (center back line) as a guide,  lay your left piece overlapping the right piece  and pin  in place. Sew the baste stitch. 
(22-1) Pull the elastic band trough the tunnel with the  help of a safety pin. Lap the ends of the elastic by  half inch and stitch them together. Hand sewing the opening shut

**** If you want to make sleeves with ruffles

(22-2) On the wrong side of sleeves, fold twice concealing the  cut edge and press. Sew the hem of sleeve as shown. 
(22-3)1. Mark elastic placement line on inside of garment piece.  2. Place no cut elastic over marked line on wrong side of fabric.  3.Stitch over elastic. Stretch elastic while stitching.  When you reach the mark, simply continue stitching over elastic.   



(24) To gather the skirt fabric simply hold the fabric still in one hand and pull one of the loose threads with the other.   Do this on both sides until your skirt is the same width as the each waist. Repeat with the other piece. 
(25) Face the right sides of skirt together. Pin on and stitch along the side lines.  Serge or zigzag red line at the edge as shown.  Press seams towards back.
(26) On the wrong side of skirt,  fold twice concealing the cut edge and press.  Sew the hem as shown.  
 (27) Match the skirt to bodice waist line with right sides  together as picture shown. 
(28) Align the skirt and bodice right sides together. Pin all the way around  waist line and sew as shown.  Serge or do zigzag the raw edge.
(29) Hand stitch the buttons.

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