Common step
Strap with frill
Apply interfacing to the wrong side of front york lining piece.
Fold 1cm(3/8") of bottom line of front York linin to the wrong side.
Now with the right sides of the front york main fabric and front york lining each other,
sew along the top edge as shown.
Cut half of the seam allowance along the curve.
Turn the piece right-side-out. Press the edges.
Fold 0.5cm(3/4”) twice concealing the cut edge of frill (straight line) and press.
Sew the hem as shown.
Sew a parallel row of long(gathering) stitches around the frill.
(Stitch length long, tension low/loose)
Gathering the frill.
Stitch the frills to the armhole line with right sides together as shown.
Fold 1cm(3/8") of bottom line of back York lining to the wrong side.
You should have 2 seperate back main fabric and back lining fabric.
Now with the right sides of the back main fabric and back lining fabric each other, sew along the neck line and arm hole line as shown.
The things that will be left unsewn is the hem line.
Trim the points on any sharp angles and cut notches in the seam allowance along the curve.
Through the back hem line, turn the piece right-side-out.
Press the edges as shown.
Pin and stitch the front and back dress together as shown, right sides of fabric together. Serge them together.
Press 1cm(3/8") armhole bias bindings in lengthwise.
Fold 1cm(3/8") both edge of binding.
Working from the right side of the garment, pin and sew binding to garment
aligning the raw edges as shown.
Cut out the edges to only a few mm as shown.
Fold the extra 1cm(3/8") binding to the inside of the garment.
And fold the binding to the inside of the garment, rolling the seam line in slightly to hide it on the inside of the garment.
Fold the raw edge of the binding under along the line you pressed earlier,
and pin this fold to the inside of the armholeline.
Continue to press the binding to the other side.
Topstitch the binding to the armhole line close to the inside fold.
Sew a parallel row of long(gathering) stitches around the front and back.
(Stitch length long, tension low/loose)
Gathering the top edge of front and back.
Pin the only outer fabric of top piece to the front or back,
right sides of fabric together as shown.
And sew along the chest lines as shown.
Cover ling down lengthwise along the pressed fold.
Top stitch along the bottom of the chest line
(about 1/8 inch from the seam between the waistband
and the pants), making sure you're catching the inside of the bottom lining.
Repeat with the back as front piece.
1. Dress
Sew a two parallel row of long(gathering) stitches around the 4 skirt pieces
(2 front skirts+2 back skirts) .
To gather the skirt1 fabric simply hold the fabric still in one hand and pull one of the loose threads with the other.
Do this on both sides until your skirt1 is the same width as the hem line of front and back.
Face the right sides of skirt together. Pin on and stitch along the side lines. Serge seams together.
Match the bottom line of front and back to top line of skirt1 with right sides together as picture shown.
Align the bottom line of front and back and top line of skirt1 right sides together.
Pin all the way around matching line and sew as shown.
Serge or do zigzag the raw edge.
Repeat with skirt2 as skirt1 pieces.
On the wrong side of skirt, fold twice concealing the cut edge and press.
Sew the hem as shown.
2. Short romper
Serge or do zigzag the leg line.
On the wrong side of leg line, fold 1.5cm/5/8inch concealing the cut edge
and press as shown.
And edge stitch along the leg line as shown.
Pull the elastic band trough the tunnel with the help of a safety pin. Do a small stitch the elastic band to the begining and end of leg line at both sides to fix as picture shown.
Serge or do zigzag the raw edge of snap button placket.
On the wrong side of placket, fold 2cm/3/4 inch once concealing the cut edge and press.
Sew the croth line as shown. Repeat with the other side.
Add snaps to the front and back placket.
3. Long romper
Do from step(1) to step(21) as Dress.
Serge or zigzag stitch out-curve line of placket as shown. Working from the right side of the garment, pin and sew snap placket to garment aligning the raw edges of crotch line as shown.
Trim and grade seam allowance as shown.
Fold the snap placket to the wrong side, and pin this fold to the inside of the front and back.
Topstitch the snap placket to the front and back close to the inside fold.
Serge or zigzag stitch the edge line of hem as shown.
Fold 1.5cm/5/8inch of hem and press. Sew the hem around as shown.
Pull the elastic band trough the tunnel with the help of a safety pin.
Do a small stitch the elastic band to the beginning and end of leg line at both sides to secure
as picture shown.
Add snaps to the front and back placket as shown. Repeat on the other side.
4. Pants-without frill
Apply interfacing to the wrong side of front york lining piece.
Fold 1cm(3/8") of bottom line to the wrong side.
Now with the right sides of the front york main fabric and front york lining each other,
sew along the top edge as shown.
Cut half of the seam allowance along the curve.
Turn the piece right-side-out. Press the edges.
Fold 1cm(3/8") of bottom line of back York lining to the wrong side.
You should have 2 seperate back main fabric and back lining fabric.
Now with the right sides of the back main fabric and back lining fabric each other, sew along the neck line and arm hole line as shown.
The things that will be left unsewn is the hem line.
Trim the points on any sharp angles and cut notches in the seam allowance along the curve.
Through the back hem line, turn the piece right-side-out.
Press the edges as shown.
Serge or zigzag pocket at the edge as shown.
Iron the edges in toward the wrong side of the fabric on each pocket without one side as shown.
On the wrong side of pocket, fold the 1cm(3/8”) from the raw edge to the wrong side
and then 2cm(3/4”) again.
Stitch the hem the top of each pocket.
The pocket is now ready to topstitch onto your right side of pockets.
Align it based on the markings on your pattern.
Edge stitch the pockets as shown.
Serge or zigzag seams at the edge as picture shown.
With the right sides together, align and pinch front rise(crotch seam)of the two front pants, and stitch the rise with a 3/8" seam allowances as needed to help the curved seam lie flat.
Pin and stitch the front pieces together as shown. Right sides of fabric together.
Pin and stitch the back pieces together as shown. Right sides of fabric together.
With right sides together, align and pin the front and back pants.
Stitch the side seams and inseams with a 3/8" seam.
Press 1cm(3/8") armhole bias bindings in lengthwise.
Fold 1cm(3/8") both edge of binding.
Working from the right side of the garment, pin and sew binding to garment
aligning the raw edges as shown.
Cut out the edges to only a few mm as shown.
Fold the extra 1cm(3/8") binding to the inside of the garment.
And fold the binding to the inside of the garment, rolling the seam line in slightly to hide it on the inside of the garment.
Fold the raw edge of the binding under along the line you pressed earlier,
and pin this fold to the inside of the armholeline.
Continue to press the binding to the other side.
Topstitch the binding to the armhole line close to the inside fold.
Sew a parallel row of long(gathering) stitches around the front and back.
(Stitch length long, tension low/loose)
Gathering the top edge of front and back.
Pin the only outer fabric of top piece to the front or back,
right sides of fabric together as shown.
And sew along the chest lines as shown.
Cover ling down lengthwise along the pressed fold.
Top stitch along the bottom of the chest line
(about 1/8 inch from the seam between the waistband
and the pants), making sure you're catching the inside
of the bottom lining.
Make the button holes as shown.
Hand stitch the buttons.
Fold press each pants leg's bottom edge twice to the wrong side-first, 1cm(3/8") and 2cm(3/4") to encase the raw edge inside the folds. Edge stitch the upper folded edge to Finnish the hem.
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