Sewing tutorial-44. D55 and R87 sewing pattern


1. D55 Dress 

(1) Pin and sew the shoulders of front 
and back together with right sides of fabric together.  
Serge or zigzag stitch the shoulders together as shown. 
Press seams towards the front. 

(2) On the wrong side of sleeves, fold twice concealing the  cut edge and press. 
Sew the hem of sleeve as shown. 

(3) Sew a parallel row of long(gathering) stitches around the top sleeve.
(Stitch length long, tension low/loose) 


(4)  Mark elastic placement line on inside of garment piece. Place elastic band 2.5cm(1”) from bottom edge of sleeves.  
 Place elastic over marked line on wrong side of fabric.



(5) Stitch over elastic. Stretch elastic while stitching.  
When you reach the mark, simply continue stitching over elastic.  

(6) Gathering the top edge of sleeve. 




(7) Stitch sleeves and armhole together as shown. Serge them together. 

(8) Fold neck frill twice concealing the cut edge and press.
Sew a parallel two row of long(gathering) stitches around the frill as shown.


(9) Gathering the frill.

(10) Lay the frill over the collar as shown. Adjust the gathers so they're relatively even.

(11) Lay your remaining collar piece over the top, right sides together, sandwiching the frill inside. Pin and stitch in place around the outer edge.

(12) Turn collar inside out.

(13) Lay your remaining collar piece over the top. 

(14)  Fold the 1cm(3/8inch) from the raw edge to the wrong side. 
 Then fold 2cm(3/4inch) to the to the right side as shown. Then pin them for fixing.

(15) Sew-0.6cm(1/4")  the baste stitch of the neck line. 

(16)  Press 1cm(3/8″) bias bindings in lengthwise. 


(17) Now pin your bias tape to the bodice neckline with right side together. 
Sew-1cm(3/8") along the neck line as shown.


(18) Trim the points on any sharp angles and cut half of the seam allowance along the curve.

(19) Turn the button placket part inside out.   And fold the binding to the inside of the garment, rolling the seam line in slightly to hide it on the inside of the garment.  Fold the raw edge of the binding under along the line you pressed earlier, and pin this  fold to the inside  of the neck line.  Continue to press the binding to the other side. Topstitch the binding to the neck line close to the inside fold.


(20) Pin and stitch the front and back together as shown, right sides of fabric together.  
Serge or overlock them together. 


(21)Make the button holes as shown. 
Using your CF (center front line) as a guide,  lay your right piece overlapping the left piece and pin  in place. Sew the baste stitch. 

(22)  Sew a two parallel row of long(gathering) stitches around the front & back skirt.

(23) To gather the dress fabric simply hold the fabric still in one hand and pull one of the loose threads with the other.   Do this on both sides until your dress is the same width as the front or back bottom edge.

(24) Face the right sides of skirt together. Pin on and stitch along the side lines.  Serge or zigzag red line at the edge as shown.  Press seams towards back.


(25)  Match the skirt to bodice waist line with right sides  together as picture shown. 

(26) Align the skirt and bodice right sides together. Pin all the way around  waist line and sew as shown.  Serge or do zigzag the raw edge.


(27)  On the wrong side of skirt,  fold twice concealing the cut edge and press. 
Sew the hem as shown.  

(28)  Make the button holes as shown. 
Hand stitch the buttons.


2. Blouse

Do from step(1) to step(20) as Dress.
 
(21) Then fold  3cm(1+1/4”) of button placket to the to the right side as shown. 

(22) Stitch the button placket 3cm(1+1/4” ) from the bottom edge. Repeat with the other side.

(23) Trim the points on sharp angles as shown.

(24) Turn the back(button placket) inside out. 
Then On the wrong side of bodice, fold hem twice concealing the cut edge  and press. 




(25) Sew the hem as shown.    

(26) Then edge stitch button placket as shown. Repeat with the other piece. 

(27) Make the button holes as shown. 

(28) Hand stitch the buttons as shown.

3. Short romper

Do from step(1) to step(21) as Dress.

(22) Apply interfacing to the wrong side of back button placket (2cm/3/4” wide).


(23)  Sew a two parallel row of long(gathering) stitches around the romper.
 
(24) To gather the romper fabric simply hold the fabric still in one hand and pull 
one of the loose threads with the other.  
Do this on both sides until your romper is the same width as the waist. 
Repeat with the other piece.

(25)Face the right sides of romper together.Pin on and stitch along the side lines.  
Serge or zigzag red line at the edge as shown. Press seams towards back.  

(26)  Match the romper to bodice waist line with right sides together as picture shown.

 (27) Align the romper and bodice right sides together. Pin all the way around  waist line and sew as shown.  Serge or do zigzag the raw edge. And Serge or do zigzag the raw edge of snap button placket. 




(28) Serge or do zigzag the leg line.  

(29)  On the wrong side of leg line, fold 1.5cm/5/8inch concealing the cut edge 
and press  as shown. 

(30)  And edge stitch along the leg line as shown.

(31) Pull the elastic band trough the tunnel with the help of a safety pin. Do a small stitch the elastic band to the  begining and end of leg line at both sides to fix as picture shown.

(32) Serge or do zigzag the raw edge of snap button placket. 

(33) On the wrong side of placket, fold 2cm/3/4 inch once  concealing the cut edge and press. 
Sew the croth line as shown. Repeat with the other side.    

(34)  Add snaps to the front and back placket.  

4. Long romper

Do from step(1) to step(21) as Dress.

(22)  Serge or zigzag stitch out-curve line of placket as shown. Working from the right side of the garment,  pin and sew snap placket to garment aligning the raw edges of crotch line as shown.

(23) Trim and grade seam allowance as shown.

(24) Fold the snap placket to the wrong side, and pin this fold to the inside of the front and back.   

(25) Topstitch the snap placket to the front and back close to the inside fold.

(26) Serge or zigzag stitch the edge line of hem as shown. 

(27) Fold 1.5cm/5/8inch of hem and press.  Sew the hem around as shown.  

(28) Pull the elastic band trough the tunnel with the help of a  safety pin. 
Do a small stitch the elastic band to the beginning and end of leg line at both sides to secure 
as picture shown.


(29) Add snaps to the front and back placket as shown. Repeat on the other side.

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