Sewing tutorial-43. D54 and R86 sewing pattern

1. D54 Dress / Blouse



Fold neck frill twice concealing the cut edge and press.
Sew a parallel two row of long(gathering) stitches around the frill as shown.


Gathering the frill.

Lay the frill over the collar as shown. Adjust the gathers so they're relatively even.



Lay your remaining collar piece over the top, right sides together, sandwiching the frill inside. Pin and stitch in place around the outer edge.

Pin and sew the shoulders of front 
and back together with right sides of fabric together.  
Serge or zigzag stitch the shoulders together as shown. 
Press seams towards the front. 

Pin the collar and stitch

along the neckline.


 Press 3/8″(1cm) bias bindings in lengthwise. 


 Then fold the 1cm(3/8inch) from the raw edge to the wrong side.  Then the fold  2cm(3/4inch) to the to the right side as shown. Then pin them for fixing.  Now pin your bias tape to the bodice neckline with right side together. Sew along the neck line as shown.

Trim the points on any sharp angles and cut half of the seam allowance along the curve.

Turn the button placket part inside out.   And fold the binding to the inside of the garment, rolling the seam line in slightly to hide it on the inside of the garment.  Fold the raw edge of the binding under along the line you pressed earlier, and pin this  fold to the inside  of the neck line.  Continue to press the binding to the other side. Topstitch the binding to the neck line close to the inside fold.

 Then edge stitch button placket as shown. Repeat with the other piece. 
 Make the button holes as shown. 
Using your CB (center back line) as a guide,  lay your left piece overlapping the right piece  and pin  in place. Sew the baste stitch. 

Sew a parallel row of long (gathering) stitches around the top edge line of skirt.
 (Stitch length long, tension low/loose) 


To gather the skirt fabric simply hold the fabric still in one hand and pull one of the loose threads with the other.  

Do this on both sides until your skirt is the same width as the each front and back. 

Match the front to front skirt with right sides together as picture shown. 

Repeat with the other side.



Stitch the skirt to the bodice with right sides together as shown. 
Serge or zigzag stitch the seam allowance.
Repeat with the other side as shown.



On the wrong side of sleeves, fold twice concealing the  cut edge and press. 
Sew the hem of sleeve as shown. 

1. Mark elastic placement line on inside of garment piece. Place elastic band 2.5cm(1”) from bottom edge of sleeves.   2. Place no cut elastic over marked line on wrong side of fabric.  3.Stitch over elastic. Stretch elastic while stitching.  When you reach the mark, simply continue stitching over elastic.  


Sew a parallel row of long(gathering) stitches around the top sleeve.
(Stitch length long, tension low/loose) 


Gathering the top edge of sleeve. 

Stitch sleeves and armhole together as shown. Serge them together. 

Pin and stitch the front and back together as shown, right sides of fabric together.  
Serge or overlock them together. 



Fold the 1cm(3/8”) from the raw edge to the wrong side and then 1.5cm(9/16”) again.
Then edge stitch it as shown. 

2. R86 Short romper



Apply interfacing to the wrong side of front & back button placket (4cm/1.6” wide).
Pin and stitch the front and back together  as shown, right sides of fabric together.  
Serge or overlock them together.

Serge or do zigzag the leg line.  

On the wrong side of leg line, fold 1.5cm/5/8inch concealing the cut edge and press  as shown.  
And edge stitch along the leg line as shown.

Pull the elastic band trough the tunnel with the help of a safety pin. 

Do a small stitch the elastic band to the  beginning and end of leg line at both sides to fix as picture shown.


On the wrong side of placket, fold 2cm/3/4 inch twice concealing the cut edge and press. 
Sew the croth line as shown. Repeat with the other side.    

 Add snaps to the front and back placket.  

Hand stitch the buttons.

3. Long romper


 Serge or zigzag stitch out-curve line of placket as shown. Working from the right side of the garment,  pin and sew snap placket to garment aligning the raw edges of crotch line as shown.

Trim and grade seam allowance as shown.

Fold the snap placket to the wrong side, and pin this fold to the inside of the front and back.   

 Topstitch the snap placket to the front and back close to the inside fold.

Serge or zigzag stitch the edge line of hem as shown. 

Fold 1.5cm/5/8inch of hem and press.  Sew the hem around as shown.  

Pull the elastic band trough the tunnel with the help of a  safety pin. 
Do a small stitch the elastic band to the beginning and end of leg line at both sides to secure 
as picture shown.


Add snaps to the front and back placket as shown. Repeat on the other side.







 

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